I've have this fat list of things I want to do before I graduate (another post for another time) and whipping it into shape has been a long time coming. Surfing has always been pretty up there. After talking about it with some friends about committing, I finally took the plunge and bought my first board on friday - the best decision i've made all summer!
Ater hours of research on forums and youtube that went well into the early hours friday morning (i slept about 2 hours before work) I finally found the board I wanted! i searched craigslist and there it was: a 6'4'' Piranha modern quad fish by Rusty surf company - check it out here. All day at work, I couldn't think of anything else but getting out there on the waves on this rocket ship.
There she is! (the board. haha.)
I was so happy when I bought it. There's something cool about buying a surfboard because it realizes some of the crazy things that you had always wanted to do but never followed through with because of some seemingly reasonable excuse. and doing some of those crazy things, even if other people thing is stupid, is a joyous and liberating feeling because for once, you listen to your heart. I remember having this huge smile as I tucked this sweet baby into my car while driving off to the sweet sounds of incubus.
Sick piranha detail
surf wax courtesy of Mr. Zogs, el perverto.
Right after I bought it, I drove over to La Jolla shores with some friends to give it its maiden voyage. It was a perfect day: beautiful sunset, super warm water, and good friends to enjoy it with. after paddling out, I caught my first wave in what could have been the most alive I had felt in a while; I couldn't stop myself from yelling at the top of my lungs amidst the breaking waves and seafoam. It's a strange feeling being ashore because everything is so still and foreign to what its like constantly adjusting your balance to the waves. the thrill and rush of cruising on top of a wave really made me realize how much i've been missing out on and how an entire surf culture could come from one simple yet enthralling pleasure: riding waves.
soggy and dizzy from the waves, I thanked God for creating waves and for blessing me with the affordability to have a surfboard. I felt like a kid when our father in heaven bought me this sweet board. its like going to a candy store. hahah no but really, thank you Jesus.
The next day, Vinh's uncles invited us to paddle out with them on sunday morning @ Torrey pines beach. They said it was a good place for beginners. psh. they were so wrong. check this out:
We got totally owned. Got this sucka as I was paddling out; my board got away from me as a huge wave came in and when i surfaced, the board surfaced under me and one of the fiberglass fins freakin uppercutted me in the chin. It hurt like a mother and started bleeding a lot. if you dont already know, I've have a huge fear of sharks. They can smell a drop of blood from a mile away, so as a service to myself and the other surfers, I beached my beat up arse on shore and threw in the towel. Just to be clear: I am a total noob. Never been surfing, never took a lesson, just played around on a friend's longboard one time and thought it was a good idea. which it was and still is. You just gotta deal with the risks.
Waves can be really powerful even if it's "just water" and there is a clear a limit to what you can attempt and what will hand you and your butt over to the waves for a good beating. it's a challenge to just get off the shores because the waves freakin pound you into a pulp. When the waves break and crash, they drag you down and you can't breathe until it decides to let go of you and spit you back up. Sometimes, waves come in spurts, so you get pulled under over and over again.
Getting caught in spin cylces is pretty freaky because you never know when you come up and most of the time, you dont have enough time to take a deep breath before you go under. note to fellow land lubbers: surfing is a challenge. If you've ever thought "ooh~ surfing looks really fun and easy! hee hee hee!" NO. this is no tea party. you really gotta commit and stick it out when you get cold and when the salt water fills your stomach. but it is sooooo worth it. my bad if this is freaking you out. At the end of the day, its a great feeling being out there with just you and the ocean.
What would I be without surf talk? allow me to introduce you to some funny surf lingo:
kook - noun: an idiot. that's it.
lip - noun: the curved edges of a wave that develops at the end of a swell and eventually crashes down.
barrel - noun: the cylindrical space inbetween a falling wave and the upwelling that you surf through
pitted - adj: used to describe when surfers get pressured closer and closer into the walls of a wave because of the decreasing space in its barrel (see barrel)
whapah! - see video below. there are no words to describe...
then watch this:
til next time...hang loose! :-)
1 comment:
I like this place! I love the idea and wish there was a place like this in Astoria, Queens. I am a surfer and found a "real surfer bar" in Point Break NYC. I am kinda jealous ;0PIts filled with surfers, people who like surfers, people who like the beach and people who don't want to live close to town. I really like this place. You know what they have these real Proctor and Channel One surfboards on the wall. It's nice for coming any day of the week and eating a late brunch. The food was outstanding. The brunch and sides were prefect and tasty. It is a perfect "escape" from city living. It is probably one of the only places where you can get a nice frozen pina colada or margarita. The service was on hit. They came up and checked on us so many times and made sure everything was up to par. It gets very active and the bartenders keep everybody having a good time. The bartender was very accommodating. He was nice enough to make a drink, that wasn't on the menu, for me :0) Did I mention the bartenders are nice eye candy. It was amazing to see their “das boot” which is shaped like a boot filled with beer. Don’t get me wrong, I am not drunk…it’s an actual boot shaped beer container ready to be emptied. Try it ..You will love it!! Oh. How can I forget, they even have a wheel o' shots where you just have to spin it and have to drink whatever shot it lands on!! Now call that bar creativity at its best!!! And when I spill a tray full of shots on myself, the bartender so kindly remakes them for me? Good music, too, and the decor helped us weather an otherwise overcast and rainy day. You know that old song "Brandy"? It goes, "Brandy, you're a fine girl, what a good wife you would be. But my life, my lover, my lady is the sea." I believe Brandy works here. No reason, I just do. And that song happens to be a guilty pleasure of mine, so that's a plus in my book. You can simply waltz over to this colorful and warm establishment, enjoy some drinks with friends, and walk home. The bar is right at the center, so you can walk to either side for drinks, and the bartenders are friendly and at your service. There is a variety of seating, good music, and friendly neighborhood people to make your time more enjoyable. Not pretentious, very cozy, I think Point Break is a fabulous place to spend some time with friends.
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